A fire pit is the simplest way to bring fire into your garden: a steel bowl or a gas burner on the patio, or a built stone boma for a farm or estate. The right choice depends on your space, how you’ll use it (warmth, atmosphere or cooking), and the rules where you live. This guide compares the main types, explains safe placement, and walks through a simple DIY build.
Types of fire pit compared
| Type | Fuel | Price band | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steel fire bowl | Wood, charcoal | Entry to mid | Patios, small gardens, moving it around | Sparks and embers; rust on thin steel |
| Corten / heavy steel fire pit | Wood | Mid to premium | Design-led gardens; lasts for years | Corten stains paving as it weathers |
| Stone or brick boma | Wood | Mid to premium (built) | Large gardens, farms, lodges, gatherings | Permanent; needs space and planning |
| Gas fire pit or fire table | LP gas | Mid to premium | Covered patios with open sides, instant flame, no smoke | Less heat than wood; gas safety and cylinder storage |
| Chiminea | Wood | Entry to mid | Small spaces; directs smoke upwards | Clay types crack in rain and frost; metal versions get very hot |
| Portable / smokeless pit | Wood, pellets | Mid | Camping, apartments with gardens, less smoke | Smaller fire; still needs open air |
Steel fire bowls
The most common choice. A wide, shallow bowl on legs, often with a spark screen and a grid so it doubles as a braai. Thicker steel lasts longer and won’t warp. Check that it has drainage holes, or rain will collect and rust the base.
Boma fire pits
A sunken or raised stone, brick or concrete ring, usually with built-in seating around it. This is the South African bush-camp classic and works best on bigger properties. Because it’s a permanent build, it’s worth getting a builder or landscaper to quote: you can get quotes from local installers for a boma or built fire feature.
Gas fire pits
A burner set in a table or bowl, filled with lava rock or fire glass, fed by a gas cylinder hidden underneath. You get flame at the turn of a knob, no smoke and no ash, but less warmth than a wood fire. They must still be used in a well-ventilated space and never in an enclosed room. Our gas heater safety guide covers cylinder handling and leak testing, which apply here too.
Chimineas
A pot-bellied stove with a chimney. It directs smoke up and away from seating, which suits smaller gardens. Clay chimineas are pretty but fragile; cast iron or steel versions are tougher.
What to look for when buying
- Size: a 60–80 cm bowl suits four to six people. Bigger groups need a bigger pit, but a larger fire also needs more clearance.
- Material and thickness: heavier steel resists warping and rust. Stainless steel and cast iron last longer than thin painted mild steel.
- Spark screen: essential if you have dry grass, trees or thatch nearby, or children around.
- Cooking options: many pits come with a braai grid or a swing arm. If you want to cook, see our guide to braai stands as well; a dedicated braai cooks better than most fire pits.
- Lid or cover: a cover keeps rain out and stops the pit from becoming a puddle.
- Gas pits: check for a flame-failure device, a stable cylinder housing with ventilation, and that the burner is rated for outdoor use.
- Where to buy: hardware chains, outdoor and braai specialists, garden centres and online marketplaces all stock fire pits. Local metalworkers often make heavy-gauge bowls to order.
Placement and safety
A fire pit is an open fire, so placement matters more than the pit itself.
- Distance from structures: keep the pit well away from the house, wooden decks, fences, sheds and thatch. A common guideline is at least 3 metres from any structure, and more for thatch. Follow the manufacturer’s clearance figures if they’re larger.
- Nothing overhead: never use a wood fire pit under a roof, pergola, umbrella, carport or low tree branches. Heat and sparks rise.
- Stable, non-flammable base: use paving, gravel, brick or concrete, never a wooden deck unless the pit is designed for it with a heat shield.
- Wind: don’t light up on windy days. Embers travel, and South African winters are dry. Position seating so the prevailing wind carries smoke away.
- Never leave it unattended, and keep children and pets at a distance.
- Have water ready: a hose, a bucket of water or sand, and ideally a fire extinguisher or fire blanket. See our fire extinguisher guide.
- Put it out properly: let the fire burn down, then douse the embers with water and stir until cold. Never put warm ash in a plastic bin.
- Fuel: burn dry, seasoned wood. Never use petrol or paraffin to light or revive a fire, and don’t burn treated timber, painted wood or rubbish.
By-laws and fire restrictions
Rules on open fires vary by municipality, and many estates and sectional-title schemes have their own conduct rules. Some areas restrict open fires during high fire-danger periods or when there is a fire ban. Before building or using a fire pit, check with your municipality, your estate or body corporate, and look out for fire-danger warnings, especially in dry, windy months. On farms and smallholdings, landowners also have responsibilities for preventing veld fires; see our guide on veld fires and firebreaks.
DIY fire pit: a simple brick or stone ring
A basic in-ground fire pit is a weekend project.
You’ll need: a spade, a spirit level, river sand or gravel, fire bricks or solid clay bricks (not hollow concrete blocks, which can crack in heat), and a steel ring insert if you want neater edges.
- Choose the spot using the clearance rules above, and check your by-laws first.
- Mark a circle about 90–120 cm across with a string and a peg.
- Dig out about 20–30 cm deep.
- Lay a base of 10 cm of compacted gravel or sand for drainage.
- Build the wall with fire bricks or natural stone, two or three courses high, keeping it level. Use refractory mortar if you want a permanent wall, or dry-stack for a simpler build.
- Add a layer of gravel or sand inside, then let any mortar cure as the manufacturer instructs before the first fire.
- Surround it with gravel or paving for a non-flammable area of at least a metre all round.
For a larger boma with seating, retaining walls or gas lines, it’s worth hiring a professional.
Fire pit ideas
- Sunken boma with built-in bench seating for a bush-camp feel.
- Gravel garden with a steel bowl and loose deck chairs: cheap and easy to change.
- Gas fire table on an open patio as a smokeless centrepiece.
- Fire pit plus braai grid for a combined cooking and gathering spot.
- Corten bowl set in a lawn clearing, surrounded by a ring of paving.
- Swing seats or hanging chairs around a pit, with plenty of clearance.
FAQ
How far should a fire pit be from the house?
A common guideline is at least 3 metres from the house and any structure, and further from thatch, trees and wooden fences. Always follow the manufacturer’s clearances, and check local by-laws and estate rules.
Can I use a fire pit under a covered patio?
Not a wood fire pit. Smoke, heat and sparks can damage the roof and cause fires. A gas fire pit may be used in a well-ventilated, open-sided area if the manufacturer allows it, but never in an enclosed space.
Do I need permission for a fire pit?
It depends on where you live. Some municipalities, estates and complexes restrict or ban open fires, especially during high fire-danger periods. Check with your municipality and your estate or body corporate before you buy or build.
Can I braai on a fire pit?
Yes, if it has a grid. A fire pit is less efficient than a braai stand because it’s wider and shallower, so keep the coals concentrated under the grid.
Wood or gas fire pit?
Wood gives more heat, the crackle and the option to cook, but makes smoke and ash. Gas is instant and clean but gives less warmth and needs careful cylinder handling.
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